This is a page that will teach you how to correctly use setups found from the "Bot setups" page or custom setups made from other pilots. This page is for specific robots' setups only, for general tactics, read the Tactics page.
This page will contain skilled pilots' guide of using setups/abilities to make pilots understand how to use their bots most effectively as they can. [When we mean skilled, is using common not-so-expensive-bots and getting alot of kills.So we don't have many tips for p2w bots that don't really require skill, for example,orkan/shocktrain haechi. If you want more information about these bots&setups,please ask to the wiki using the comments]
Note: Please do not edit out or delete information on builds that you don't like, as other players do use them and enjoy their playstyles. Please also try to refrain to editing other user's sections unless you have used that specific build yourself and respect other's builds and strategies. This goes for ALL builds, no matter how controversial or unpopular. However, please do not use this page for adding clearly unreasonable builds (e.g Noricum/Ecu Destrier). If you have any ideas about the game that haven't been released yet, go to the User Ideas page.
(I'm looking at you two, Darkangel and HDIOS. Hydras, Raijins, Griffins etc - all of them have their place in this world).
1. DON’T leave any battles or troll around too much. Leaving battles can negatively affect your teammates and increase the chance of losing battles. Doing so will also lose trophies, making it harder for you to climb up the leagues.
2. Main objective of the game is beacon capture and control (except for deathmatch). Be greedy for beacons - but not too much.
- Do not race towards the same beacon along with your teammate; you will be wasting time, go capture some other beacon. (In King of the Hill, a team of three bots for the current beacon, and three to contest the next beacon is about right)
- Avoid doing suicide runs to capture the center beacon without adequate support from your teammates, as enemy players can always re-capture it. Weigh the benifits against the risks when doing a suicide charge towards the central beacon. Sometimes this can work out - but be careful. Also, remember that if your team caps the side beacons (as well as your home beacon), you don't necessarily have to capture and hold the center beacon. However, the more beacons, the better!
3. Avoid a mix of different weapon ranges, as the range difference can negatively affect the effectiveness of your weapons. Sometimes a mix can be beneficial - not always.
4. Deal damage to enemies. Dont mind if you cant kill them. Your teammates will take care of that. Do kill beacon cappers though asap, troll setups and snipers to make breathing space for your team. Remember though - killing a weakened bot is better than damaging a full-health bot. You might get more damage from a full-health enemy, but taking the kill puts them one bot closer to meching out - a major advantage.
5. Have a well balanced hanger when you are playing solo. Consist of 1 sniper and 4 brawlers~ this varies with player to player. Midrangers can sometimes outnumber brawlers if you specialize in them, and a sniper is only 'necessary' for those who enjoy it.
6. In lower leagues (silver, gold) battles usually end up when one side mechs out so DO NOT self-destruct your bots before or during the battle, especially if you are in your last robot. Self destruct in higher leagues when your robot has
- All hard points destroyed (also applicable to lower leagues if your bot is for combat and not beacons)
- Very slow speed (when distant from the battle)
- When your home beacon is threatened (especially in beacon rush)
- Self destruct is highly recommended when a knife figher approaches within 200m range of your sniper, unless you are at or near full charge on your weapons - a sniper salvo, followed by spawning in a knife fighter at close range, can be very effective.
7. Try to Hold 3 beacons for as long as you can. Usually, the center beacon as long as possible in most maps. Yamantau, Springfield, and Canyon have equal beacons on each team's side.
- Try not to defend center all alone as your bot will often not survive long.
- You dont need to be at center, just be close to it so you can engage in combat when needed.
DONT FORGET THIS IS A GAME AND PRIMARY GOAL IS TO HAVE FUN!!
Close rangers/Knife Fighters (Builds listed below)
Introduction - Thunder Raijin is one of the most powerful close rangers in the game so far. Every bot in range will get destroyed in seconds. The Thunders can also be used at longer ranges (below 500 meters) to take out anciles; due to the bullet spread, most of the fired projectiles will hit the target.
Basic strategy - Get close to the enemy and fire or deploy next to the enemy on beacon rush for sudden attack effect. In the lower-mid leagues (this works up to Gold), there are few robots that are able to outgun a bastioned Thunder Raijin.Advanced strategy -
Due to this bot's Bastion mode, this setup is perfect to camp at enemy spawn points and kill the bots before they realize what's shooting at them. In Beacon Rush and TDM especially, the Thunder Raijin is devastatingly effective when you spawn at close range near an enemy. Spawn, Bastion and a few Thunder shots later, there should be a smoldering metal wreck burning in front of you. Remember to use cover when moving, as although they do less damage than brawlers, snipers and midrangers can take advantage of your slow speed to inflict substantial damage to you over time.
Expert Strategy - The Thunder Raijin is mainly used as a brawler and beacon defender, and performs extremely well in both roles, especially as a beacon defender due to combat always occurring at point-blank range, where your Thunders are most effective. However, once there are no enemies nearby, it is advised that players position this robot where it could be more useful, e.g in gaps in the walls with a field of fire covering center beacon. However, this does not mean that one should abandon a captured beacon, and a team should always have at least one (usually two if not more) player guarding each captured beacon. When positioning yourself, if there are no allies nearby, find a suitable spot that covers your beacon and where you can attack enemies on the side, especially when guarding a side beacon. One should also keep in mind the fact that firing at Anciles at even a distance of 400-500 meters can be effective, as the bullet spread of the Thunder and the large surface area of the Ancile means that your Thunders will quickly take the down energy shield. When opponents are at extreme range, feel free to fire off a shot every two seconds, keeping your clip loaded while being a nuisance.
Note - Quadropedal bots have four distinct sides to their legs, and prefer to have two legs facing in the direction of travel. This means that while walking in a straight line, the legs will turn to face the direction of travel. This can determine whether or not you can fit through a gap, especially if you are caught with your legs half turned. Additionally, different leg orientations are better or worse for climbing in specific areas - the broader sides are better for locations on moon and valley, whereas the thin side is superior on canyon and other segments of moon.
One should take care to remember the following points:
- Sniper fire/support firing/missiles look weak but they will chip away your HP slowly and can eventually kill you. Use obstacles to take cover before you activate Bastion ability.
- When enemies have artillery weapons, it is not a good idea to Bastion camp. (This can still be achieved with the support of an ancile bot such as fujin, or through clever use of cover)
- Because your shield does not get damaged when you don't Bastion, it is a good idea to save your shield HP for potential future use. /*this works for every Raijin setup.Save your shield health against rocket weapons because it can't block it anyway.But, if you think the rocket clip will kill you,(due to low health) just bastion and give most damage to the enemy before you bot gets destroyed. */ Do not, however, sacrifice your bot to save your shield.
Pros and Cons Pros: Extremely deadly at close range, devastating firepower, has highest HP of all robots with strong physical shielding, has slightly above average speed for a heavy bot (36km/h at lv 12), fairly maneuverable due to having four legs, has climbing ability which can be very useful on maps such as Canyon, deadly to stealthed Stalkers, two hardpoints which are relatively fast to upgrade as a whole.
Cons: Hard to get close to bots when not playing Beacon Rush, weak to all rocket setups, vulnerable to flanking and angry mob groups, large side profile which block narrow alleys, can struggle to fit through small gaps.
Introduction - The Ember Raijin is arguably the best Raijin setup currently due to the high firepower and ability to penetrate all types of shields. This can be considered the premium version of the Thunder Raijin due to a longer effective range.
Basic strategy - Stay at 350m to avoid Orkans, deploy the shield to block plasma or boost firepower, drop shield when tulumbas or tridents are near you.
Advanced strategy - Be able to lead your target because Griffins and Dash Bots will try to evade your Embers due to their low projectile speed. Cornershoot when possible (unless facing splash weapons including other embers). It is better to let the cover take the damage rather than your shield. Position yourself roughly 400m away from an enemy beacon or spawn point and keep your shield down while remaining near cover, in case a more powerful bot spawns near you.
Pros: Decent range (350m) and slightly outranges Death Button setups (Orkan /Pinata). Defensive physical shielding system and firepower boost (+30%) whilst in Bastion Mode, increasing already incredibly destructive firepower. Can also damage energy and physical shield robots (e.g Ancilot) with short weapon reload time (5 seconds) as well as the ability to climb most structures except vertical ones. It is also quite maneuverable.
Cons: Vulnerable to rocket setups, such as RDBs (Tulumbas /Pin) which outrange it by a significant distance. Somewhat compensated by extremely high durability. Suffers from slightly slower speed but is still faster than the Natasha and Fury. Cannot move whilst in Bastion Mode. Also can’t fit through small spaces.
Ember + Ancile RaijinIntroduction - This setup is one of the most powerful [and universal ] setups that has better survivability compared to the double ember Raijin.The energy shield protects you from rocket fire and the ember goes through every kind of shield of the enemy's.This setup is great against Lancelot and other physical shielded due to their low main health(not shield health) compared to other bots.
Basic Strategy - Because this setup has low firepower compared to other setups, it is not recommended to fight the enemies alone.You should move with your teammates and burn reds down.Unlike thunder Raijin, you don't need to closeup(to the foe) more than 340m.
Advanced strategy - When you fight robots, try to poke out the Ember side only and cover the Ancile side. This is best known as “corner shooting” and this will let fewer plasma shots hit your bot/shield.
Expert Strategy - When you pick your enemy, pick them carefully. Think ember as a slow-moving-rockets.it is hard to shoot fast moving bots, and it is easy to kill slow moving bots because they can't dough the flames.Leave dashes to other teammates, because even without their ability they are still fast enough to miss embers flames.
Pros: This bot has two types of shields, which makes it unkillable from any setup. can climb, has slightly above average speed for a heavy bot, can block enemy's way, looks scary (yes, it scares cossacks).
Cons: Can get noticed by enemy very FAST, can block allies, too, must bastion for immunity to plasma.
Introduction - Redeemers are the second best for knife fighting (with Ember being the best). Redeemer's firing strongly resembles Taran's. This means short bursts and a fairly long firing period. Its firing rate, however, is about 10% slower than Taran's (About 1 second between bursts). It is an excellent setup against Fujin, Haechi and anything with an energy shield or Ancile (e.g. Ancilot).
Basic strategy - You should have a teammate with you if you intend to take and hold the center beacon. Redeemers are effective against physical shields, as it can destroy Lancelot's physical shield in one clip of plasma bursts. It is an excellent counter against Carnages and Fujins, as it bypasses energy shields and does a high amount of damage.
Advanced strategy - When fighting energy shielded robots, keep in mind that they have lower than usual HP. You do not typically need to worry about them killing you first (As long you have sufficient HP and physical shields are usable). When nothing is happening, store the shields for future use, since they don't get damaged when stored. When in Bastion mode, you will also receive a 30% damage increase. When ambushing, get behind the enemy, Bastion and then kill them.
Expert strategy - Go behind the enemy spawn and Bastion there. This allows control of enemy robot traffic and possibly the whole battlefield. Keep in mind that enemies will eventually find out where you are. While doing this, this allows your teammates to capture beacons for more beacon control. Domination is the easiest for free kills but it will be harder to reach your previous position again after you die. Beacon rush allows for easier spawning but less free kills. TDM spawn points allow them to avoid getting spawn killed. However, it also allows you to spawn near enemies, as teams frequently linger by the enemy team's spawn point.
Pros: Excellent against anciles, high burst damage, burst rounds, Bastion allows more damage, physical shield, and climbing ability.
Cons: Has somewhat large size, no protection against rocket weapons, fire rate is slow, easy to be flanked, and not as effective against large groups as Thunder Raijin.
Orkan FujinIntroduction - Orkan Fujin is a really good bot, capable of dealing hundreds of thousands of damage within seconds. Also is great against physical shields, as it bypasses them.
Basic strategy - Get to cover! Being out in the open will expose you to plasma, which will go straight through Fujin's ancile. Fire off missiles, and then retreat to save up more missiles for a single burst. Orkans are not for sustained damage.
Advanced strategy - When the ancile is depleted, activate it so it can recharge. It will not recharge when not activated, this is crucial to understand. Also, choose targets wisely - avoid ancile bots, as the salvo is not enough to deplete the shield and kill the robot unless it is at low HP, and avoid plasma bots, as they are capable of dealing more damage in return due to your slightly below-average health.
Expert strategy - The fujin’s ancile recharges in 20 seconds. The Orkan reloads in 23 seconds. This means that the Fujin can synergies very well with orkans as it can hide, recharge its shield and reload its orkans. In the uncommon situation where a plasma bot approaches you, if you have no way to escape, get as close to the enemy bot as possible and strafe from side to side. The Fujin is a quadruped, meaning it doesn’t have any leg turning lag. It can change direction instantly. Some dash bots will decide to dash into your shield to bypass it completely. In the case where they attempt to dash into your shield, drop your shield. This will give them an opening to fire. While they are firing, put your shield back up. This will allow it to absorb a significant amount of damage that would have otherwise killed your bot. Rinse and repeat until one person gets killed.
Note - The fujin gains height when in sentry mode. This can allow you to make use of odd cover, but it can also make cover less effective. In particular, some buildings on shenzen are of exactly the right height where you can fire over them in sentry, while being nearly impossible to hit in return.
Pros: Deadly when not taken seriously, fatal to shielded bots, damage is dealt in mere seconds, toughest energy shield in the game, lots of HP, in-built Ancile resists all but plasma. It has 3 Medium weapons, considered the best weapon slot in the game.
Cons: Not super fast, vulnerable to plasma, not able to deal sustained damage.
Basic strategy - Do not walk into the open. Plasma is common in high leagues, along with anti-ancile missiles (Aphids in pairs or triples). Find some targets with guns (no plasma) and then either draw them towards you (Best option but may not work) or walk around the corner (Best option for quick damage).
Advanced strategy - Like Orkan Fujin, when you're alone, activate the shield to recharge it for a next engagement. It is very critical to do this. In most cases, you do not need to walk back to reload since reload is only 5 seconds. It is also critical to upgrade the Tarans a few times. The recommended level for Silver league is 4 on Fujin, 5 in Gold, and 7 in Diamond. However, remain aware of your surroundings, so that you are not ambushed.
Expert strategy - Fujin is capable of changing direction almost instantly, not needing to rotate its torso. This allows it to dodge enemy fire in a similar manner to light bots, though with somewhat less success due to its large size. This allows you to survive longer when forced into a confrontation when your shield is not effective. Also, remember about robots that try to enter the Ancile. If you think the enemy player is about to do this, kill it as fast as you can if your unable to drop the shield for whatever reason or drop the shield and then move back (It is however risky).
Note - an effective strategy against kinetic bots can be to sentry nearby and hammer them with plasma, but keep an eye on your shield. Close range kinetic weapons - Punishers, Thunders, Storms and Gusts - are all very effective at depleting your shield rapidly. Your shield can block this, but will rapidly be destroyed. Alternatively, by backpedalling you can keep out of their effective range, staying around 300m. You will take damage, but it will not be fatal - unlike camping in sentry as they approach.
Pros: Very effective against ancile robots. Fairly maneuverable, can "Atomize targets," and one of the best anti-Carnage bots. The toughest ancile in the game will block all but plasma. Can also inflict heavy damage to most other robots, even when on low health, such as Raijin. It has 3 Medium weapons, considered the best weapon slot in the game.
Cons: Like all ancile robots, they do not block plasma. Taran Fujin is very vulnerable to sniper fire and mid-rangers. Also vulnerable to robots that get into the shield.
Introduction - The stustained damage member of the close-range fujins. Surpasses the Taran fujin in terms of damage per clip, but must close with the enemy to realize its full potential.
Basic Strategy - The Taran fujin is only somewhat sustained damage, firing short salvos that allow it to duck in and out of cover. The Punisher, however, must remain exposed so that it can continue to fire on its target. This makes choosing targets more important, as while you are attacking your target, your target can fight back.
Advanced Strategy - While punisher's damage drops off significantly at range, it doesn't quite hit zero. You can continue to attack at up to 450 meters, targetting bots with large frames that absorb your fire. Punisher is also comparable to Thunder in its effectiveness against ancile, again due to bullet spread and raw damage output.
Expert strategy - Your damage is based off of the size of your clip, which takes time to empty. Furthemroe, as a kinetic weapon, you deal increased damage to physical shields. Use this against physical shield bots by starting a full clip 'wasting' it on their shield. They will soon discover the flaw in their plan - the Punisher has no problems destroying the shield AND the bot. Even if they manage to kill you, they will be left without their shield, and significantly more vunerable. At longer distances, your bullet spread causes some of your ammunition to strike the legs of shielded bots, use this to weaken them as they approach you. Your weapon is not all that dissimilar from a kinetic scourge - you are still effective at slightly longer ranges.
Pros: Massive clip damage and superb anti-shield capability. Has one of the highest DPS values at point blank. Capable of sustained fire, only matched by weapons such as the Molot and Thunder.
Cons: Damage drops off steeply at longer ranges, relies on sustained engagement to deal damage. Stopping and resuming fire is a siginificant negative. Vulnerable to return fire while attacking.
Introduction - This unconventional Rhino build is an effective beacon capper with defensive shielding whilst in Assault Mode. However, it outguns most other beacon cappers, such as the Stalker, by a considerable margin. Nicknamed the 'Hellfire Rhino,' it is not an uncommon sight - though pure DB/PDB rhinos are more common. Despite it being one of the rarer Rhino builds, it is much more versatile than both the DB/PDB builds whilst having equal if not more firepower, being able to devastate most enemy robots.
Basic Strategy - To reduce the likelihood of being flanked, try to cap beacons that are relatively well-covered. Remember, if your team has both side beacons, occupying center is not a priority, as your team still has 3 out of the 5 beacons. Whilst in Assault Mode, maintain situational awareness to avoid being flanked. Once you have fired all your Orkans, do not hesitate to put your shield up to let your Orkans reload (and gain extra 'health') if your enemy (or enemies) are in front of you and not on your sides. One way of checking to see if you're being flanked in Assault Mode is by just swiveling to look round; you turn around slowly in Assault Mode that a quick look doesn't really affect your direction. Additionally, you do not have to adjust your joystick to keep going - when in Assault Mode, the Rhino only goes forward, but can still change direction when moving forwards, being able to slowly veer to the right or left.
Advanced Strategy - Can be extremely effective when used correctly against Ancile robots as well as physical-shielded robots. Two Orkans is still quite a bit of firepower, can overload most Anciles and deny most physical-shielded robots, such as the Galahad, of an important source of protection. If you are against (a) plasma robot(s) (such as a PDB Griffin), you can simply put up your shield and steadily chip away their health with your Magnums, as their plasma weapons do not have any sort of advantage against your shield (unlike bullet weapons such as the Punisher and splash weapons such as the Pin ). Be aware of the fact that your shield can still be destroyed, even though it has a lot of health.
Expert Strategy - Do not hesitate to use Assault Mode to charge through Ancile robots' shields whilst firing your Magnums, (e.g Ancile Lancelot), before tearing through their remaining health with a devastating volley from your Orkans. Also, if you are hiding behind cover to let your Orkans recharge and you see an enemy robot(s) approaching around the corner, fire a small volley of rockets from your hiding place slightly in front of the corner/ wall (similar to cornershooting) to deter them from engaging you, as the splash will damage them and give the impression that you have fully loaded weapons and have prepared an ambush. Do not, however, fire all your rockets, as this defeats the purpose of this tactic. Additionally, do your best to memorise the reload times for various weapons. This can allow you to time your attacks - for example, a Zeus has one second discharge, five seconds reload. Listening to the sound of your opponents weapons firing can also help to give an indication on whether they are reloading. Due to your weapons being instantly available on exiting Assault Mode, this gives you three seconds to attack unscathed. This is effective when unaccompanied by temmates and when on low health.
Special Tactic 1: When your robot has been severely damaged or has lost one or both medium hardpoints, it is recommended that players enter Assault Mode and put up the Rhino's physical shield, in order to survive for longer. Your main source of firepower has been destroyed or reduced so standing still in Assault Mode with a physical shield whilst firing your Magnums is a good strategy to survive for longer so that you can continue to inflict more damage on the enemy. Do not advance towards the enemy if using this tactic, as it leaves you more vulnerable to being flanked and destroyed by enemy robots you have passed whilst charging, as you will be leaving the protection of being with your teammates in a group. You will also be entering closer-range where you can be attacked and destroyed by more weapons (Example: You are at 350m firing your Magnums and charge into a range below 300m, leaving you exposed to Pinata and Orkan fire.)
Special Tactic 2: When on low health and in close quarters with an enemy bot, you can use Assault Mode to charge the enemy bot. The technique is aiming your bot so that you pass close by to one side. As your speed in assault mode is that of a light bot, you can quickly pass them. When you do this, immediately exit assault mode, turn your bot to face the enemy while firing, and reenter assault as soon as it is available. This tactic helps to deal with enemies who try to flank you, and can keep you alive while on low HP as you wait for an opportunity for a killing blow. The rapid unload time of your Orkans is critical to this tactic.
Pros: Decent health and firepower. Benefits from vastly increased speed and tough physical shield while in Assault Mode. The combination of this ability along with both energy and rocket weapons means that this build is a large threat, effective against both Ancile and Physical shield robots (e.g Bulgasari). It also has two Medium weapons, considered the best weapon slot in the game.
Cons: Like all other Rhinos, this build is prone to flanking, though this vulnerability can be substantially decreased simply by maintaining awareness. It also has no protection against rocket weapons at mid-long range (e.g Trident). Its four hardpoints also take a while to upgrade.
See this guide How to use PDB rhino (may be outdated, but much of the information is still highly relevant)
Death Button Rhino (Orkan/Pinata)
Introduction - The DB Rhino is one of the more conventional Rhino setups, being relatively common in the mid leagues. However, whilst it is not as exotic as other setups, it more than makes up for it with sheer burts firepower.
Basic Strategy - Use the Rhino's Assault Mode to approach your target quickly and enter weapon range. The physical shield should protect you from incoming kinetic and plasma fire. Once within range, exit Assault Mode and open fire with your rockets. One salvo should be enough to destroy or severely damage most enemy robots.
Advanced Strategy - When encountering robots with Anciles or in-built energy shields, do not be afraid to use Assault Mode to charge into the energy shield (do not fire yet) before unloading all your rockets once within the energy shield. Robots with in-built energy shields usually have lower health to compensate for the additional protection given by the Ancile, so one full salvo is more than capable of destroying them. Do not fire until you are within the energy shield, as robots such as the Fujin have extremely strong Anciles which can absorb a substantial amount of enemy fire (in this case, almost three quarters). However, do not advance if there are several other enemy robots nearby, as this will leave you prone to be flanked and surrounded.
Introduction - Thunder Carnage is an excellent assassin but struggles against snipers and plasma. Timing its Rush ability correctly can enable the robot to kill larger and more powerful robots.
Basic strategy - One advice only: avoid plasma. Always avoid plasma at ALL costs. If you need to kill plasma robots, flank them using rush. It is also effective to just "add another gun to the fight". In other words, assist other players fighting against others or plasma robots. Just flank, rush, and then go for the kill.
Advanced strategy - When it comes to knife fighting, Thunders are most effective. If you want, upgrade them to level 8 or even Mk2 to make them more effective, therefore, making the robot more fun to use. The time you should attack is when an enemy is distracted or unaware of your location. If its a Dash robot, make sure they don't get into the shield. Hit and run can bait some enemies towards allies so they can chip its HP so you can take the kill. Dart and kill also works certain times. Just find a robot you can handle and then just rush towards it. When darting and killing, find a manageable robot. Dart towards the target, circle it and shoot it until it dies. For example, Natasha. You find it, rush towards it, and then it starts defending itself. It will have a hard time because you're moving and the player needs to change the camera's position, making it hard to target you. When dealing with groups, instead of rushing in and sacrificing almost all of your HP, silently flank them and then pick them off. Just make sure no one turns around and notices you while picking off the targets. Also, make sure that you don't kill a robot in a location where its teammates will realize what just happened. However, larger robots do have much more firepower, so be careful. Your built in Ancile won't hold up against more than a few shots and can be walked through by enemy robots if you are circling at close range. (where your Thunders and theirs are most effective.)
Expert Strategy - Your shield is a bullet magnet, meaning you must utilize it to the full potential. When peeking around a corner, let enemy bots empty their magazines taking down your shield - then rush out and kill them while they reload. Pay attention to your shield's regeneration as well - when your shield is depleted, try to time your next attack so that their first salvo is caught the instant your shield reactivates. Carnage has decent battlefield mobility, so you don't need to get too close - instead, find a point nearby a key area, and pick off lone bots, or hit groups distracted by your allies. In particular, areas such as the center beacon on Power Plant and the forests of towers on Shenzen provide excellent places to wait in ambush.
Note - Griffins are prey. Their large frame, low health, and slow speed make them excellent targets - even when armed with plasma.
Pros and Cons Pros: Excellent knife fighter, versatile, and has Ancile shielding. Perfect for 1v1s and picking off targets and snipers with rush. Quicker Ancile regeneration than the original Ancile.
Cons: Very vulnerable to plasma. Has the weakest ancile shielding in the game. Also has the least survivability on paper and the slowest medium tied with Gl. Patton.
Introduction - Introducing the zeus carnage. The setup that is capable of being the most annoying bot to have to deal with in any league execpt for Masters and Champion. How is that possible you ask? Read on below.
Basic Strategy - Decent speed, comes equipped with an in-built energy shield, has two heavy hardpoint AND has a rush ability! This bot must be amazing?! Not quite, it has extremely low health, avoiding plasma fire is ideal and made easy on you thanks to the speed and rush ability of this bot.
Advanced Strategy - The zeus weapon is an incredible match for the carnage. It has a small reload time for a midrange weapon, pair that with carnage's speed and you have a bot that can go in and out of cover constantly damaging an opponent. Never be hasty in using the zeus weapons though, always pick off unsuspecting targets. The speed of the carnage allows you to get to a good spot for sniping unlike other bots. This advantage means you are able to close the distance between further targets, and run away if a someone gets too close. With the zeus carnage you should never expect to be doing high damage, your somewhat of a upgraded gekko patton, ie it's the physological aspect. Not to say you're not doing any damage AT ALL, you still shorten the red bar a good amount. This build can also be good in close combat, provided you have a lot of cover to work with. Never stay in the open for long, low durability plus the fact that zeus is not as good as a brawling weapon might be could be detrimental to your carnage's survivability. Energy shield should protect you from rockets, but don't take it for granted.
Note - ALWAYS hit bots with a physical shield, that damage will always help in the future. (Of course don't focus on them, you need some damage for yourself!)
Thunder/Aphid/Pinata (x2) Leo
Introduction - Despite being a rare weapons setup for a Leo, it combines indirect and direct firepower to deliver a decent amount of damage. However, this also means that it requires more careful piloting and use of cover.
Basic strategy - Due to its slow speed, it is best to take in the tightest route possible in order to inflict more damage.
Advanced strategy - When more than one enemy approaches, hide behind any obstacle and inflict damage with your Aphid until your allies notice you need help. Using this tactic on an approaching enemy allows you to inflict substantial damage upon them with your Aphid until they are close enough for you to unleash a barrage of Thunder and Pinata bullets and rockets respectively. And when the time is right to charge and deliver your entire salvo. It should also be noted that you should try to avoid Orkans at all cost with this build, as it can tolerate most other forms of splash damage.
Pros: Devastating salvo, very durable, high health, perform well at corner shooting, good skirmisher/ambusher. Cons: Slow, Vulnerable to splash (specifically Orkans, it can tolerate most other forms of splash damage), relatively large profile, slow speed, less chance of escaping confrontations, combination of indirect and direct firepower means that it is outgunned by pure brawler builds and pure missile/ support builds.
Thunder/Gust/Magnum (x2) Leo
Introduction - This build, like the Thunder/Aphid/Pinata Leo above, combines different types of weapons (kinetic and energy). However, as these weapons are all designed for close combat brawling provide direct firepower, it doesn't suffer from the latter's main disadvantage and is a powerful and versatile presence on the battlefield.
Basic Strategy - Treat this robot as you would normally pilot a brawler; use cover to approach your enemies before opening fire at close range. Do not be afraid to close into point-blank range when against robots with less health and firepower (e.g Golem and arguably, the Griffin), as your high durability and good firepower will make short work of them.
Advanced Strategy - If possible, close in on your enemies to point-blank range (where your Thunder and Gust are most effective) and your high durability means that your chances of survival are increased. When against enemies with an Ancile or energy shield (e.g Carnage), engage them at ranges below 350m and with a teammate if possible, where your Magnums can do decent damage whilst remaining accurate. If you are unable to close to this range due to suppressive fire, open fire on their energy shield using your Thunder and Gust (your Magnums have no reload) as the bullet spread and large surface area of the shield means that it will be hit by most, if not all, the fired bullets, depriving the robot of an important source of protection.
Expert Strategy - In the higher leagues (Gold+), the use of cover and ambush tactics are incredibly important as the Leo, while powerful, no longer has a monopoly as a brawler because you will start seeing more Raijins, Rhinos and Lancelots. These robots are usually equipped with Thunders, Orkans or Tarans, all high damage weapons. This, combined with the fact that all three robots have frontal defensive physical shielding and in the case of the Raijin, a 30% boost to what is already a high amount of firepower means that one must exploit these robots' lack of shields on their sides and back to the fullest extent possible. Flanking them is recommended. If you are on low health, try to provide support fire to your teammates who have already engaged your target from cover. Also, remember the fact that your Thunder and Gust weapons do double damage to physical shields whilst your Magnums bypass energy shields and Ancile.
Pros: High durability, decent speed for a heavy robot, large amount of firepower, versatile, combines energy and kinetic weapons, best brawler robot in lower-mid leagues (until Gold League).
Cons: Outclassed in Higher Leagues by Lancelot, Raijin (and arguably, the Rhino) in close combat brawling, no shields, no Medium hardpoints, four hardpoints take a while to upgrade.
Swiss Army Leo
Introduction - Swiss army bots are not terribly uncommon on the battlefield. Capable at everything, excelling at nothing, they are the bots of the low-level hangar, where a player has yet to determine their preferred style, and does nto have the slots to specialize their entire hangar. Do not take these bots lightly, as they are very versatile. However, they are usually always outgunned and outmatched by more role-specific builds.
Pros - capable of engaging at many ranges, and capable of inflcting damage in almost any fight. They may not be as deadly at a single range, but they can always fight back. Few bots can walk away unscathed.
Cons - they have no specific purpose, and neither does their pilot. They will lose to dedicated midrangers, brawlers, and snipers with little contest, and their pilot often lacks a clear strategy.
Note - If you want to be helpful, try and show off for the Swiss Army Bots. These players have not yet made up their minds about what they want to do - try and demonstrate your bot's strengths and weaknesses, to help them decide what more role-specific builds they want to use for their robots later in the game and discover their own unique playstyle.
Introduction - This robot is the best close-range Griffin setup for players who don't have enough Workshop Points or Gold to buy Orkans, Tarans or Magnums. Even then, it is an effective shield-breaker and has a longer range than both the DB and PDB setups, arguably being one of the cheapest and most effective Griffin builds.
Basic Strategy - Treat this build as an ambusher. Use your jump to gain higher ground over your enemy whilst firing and to go over low-level cover (e.g on Moon map), catching your enemy by surprise whilst dealing incredible damage at close range, rapidly overcoming most defenses.
Advanced Strategy - With Leos and Natashas being used as brawlers, commonly with Thunders, the use of cover and ambush tactics is much more important, as these setups will rapidly destroy your robots at close range. Many Thunder Leos/Natashas use Pinatas, so use your Jump ability to avoid them (rockets usually miss a jumping target, though expect to still receive some damage) as well as for ambushing, going over cover and for greater speed (jumping is faster than walking). Your Punishers are still effective at 350-400 metres, though they do slightly less damage due to bullet spread. Despite this, commonly used Pinatas won't do any damage as you outrange them, and the bullet spread of the Thunder is greater than that of your own weapons. A burst of sustained fire from your weapons will rapidly break most physical shields (they do double damage to them) as well as Anciles.
Expert Strategy - With DB and PDB setups commonly being used, one should generally keep to ranges of 350-400 metres, unless when attacking with a teammate or when facing a weakened/weaker enemy. Many players underestimate the threat that this build poses to their robots, as Punishers are generally used less in higher leagues. This build remains a formidable shield-breaker and provides excellent suppressive fire at anything up to 400 metres, outranging most close-range plasma and rocket builds. Do not hesitate to use your Jump ability to cap unguarded beacons if there are no nearby enemies, especially in Beacon Rush as you can simply re-spawn on a captured beacon, as you have enough firepower to heavily damage most robots and break the shields of others e.g Bulgasari. It is recommended that this build is used in the mid leagues (up to Diamond league) as it is outclassed in close combat by other robots by this stage e.g Lancelot.
Pros: Decent firepower, has Jump ability, longer effective range than most close range setups (up to 400 metres), significantly cheaper than other Griffin builds (DB and PDB), does double damage to physical shields.
Cons: Below-average health for a heavy robot, average speed, four hardpoints means that it takes quite long to upgrade as a whole, can be outgunned at close range by other builds (e.g PDB), outclassed in higher leagues by Lancelot, Rhino etc.
Double Thunder/Pinata Natasha
Introduction - The Double Thunder Pinata Natasha is a relatively cheap and extremely effective close-range setup, with more firepower than most other robots on the battlefield. It performs best in silver-gold leagues, outgunning most other robots on the battlefield, but is still a dangerous threat in the higher leagues.
Basic Strategy - Use obstacles to cover your approach (e.g walls, buildings, other robots etc) whilst you close the distance between you and your enemy. Engage them at close range (within 300 metres as your Pinatas can then fire) where you can bring your devastating firepower to bear.
Advanced Strategy - To make the most of this setup's potential, it works best in close-range brawls. Try to ambush the enemy and take them by surprise by using cover, before engaging them at close-point blank range (within 200 metres if possible). Your weapons loadout will overload Anciles in mere seconds, before rapidly destroying the enemy robot(s). Even robots with high amounts of health cannot avoid being destroyed, such as Leos. Remember that you can fire your Thunders at 400-500 metres to take out energy shields and finish off weakened enemies. Your robot's large surface area means that most fired projectiles from enemy robots will hit you.
Expert Strategy - In addition to the tips above, pick your targets preferentially. Take out robots with lower health or more dangerous setups first. Examples include the Griffin, which stands no chance against your setup at close range, and Thunder Raijins, which essentially have double your health and have the same firepower in Bastion Mode, respectively. The quick taking out of enemy robots in ambushes is crucial as your robot and weapons are not suited to sustained combat. Aim to destroy your opponent in under 10 seconds if possible, as your Thunders and Pinatas will already be on FWR (Fire While Reloading) mode, greatly reducing your damage output. Usually, though, this is of little concern, as few robots have enough health or firepower to outlast you. Robots that can (but not always) outlast you include Raijin, Lancelot, Leo, Rhino, Bulgasari, Haechi and the Inquisitor. Pros: Has a lot of firepower, outguns many other robots, decent amount of health, cheap to obtain (costs silver)
Cons: Large surface area, slow speed, outclassed in higher leagues, short effective range.
Thunder/Punisher T Boa
Introduction - The Boa is widely considered as a workhorse of the lower leagues, with incredible health and decent firepower for a medium robot. However, with these traits, it can still be used up to and including Silver League, providing the pilot uses it correctly.
Basic Strategy: Approach your enemy and open fire on them with a barrage of bullets at close range. Your robot has more than enough health to survive encounters with more common opponents, such as the Vityaz. If possible, try to engage opponents within 200-100 metres, as this is where your Thunder and Punisher T are most effective.
Advanced Strategy: Use cover to hide your approach. Your robot is small enough to hide behind small obstacles such as small buildings and walls. Attacking your opponent from behind within 100 metres if possible is very effective, as you will have dealt heavy damage on their robot before they realize that they are under attack. The position of the medium hardpoint on the Boa also makes it ideal for cornershooting, where you can hide behind a wall and only expose your medium weapon to fire at an approaching enemy. The damage you receive (if any) will be greatly reduced as most of your robot is behind an obstacle.
Expert Strategy: The Boa eventually becomes obsolete as a brawler in the higher leagues (Gold+) and is relegated to more of a support role, providing suppressive fire and helping teammates with more durable robots (such as the Leo) to kill enemy robots. It can act as a decent shield breaker, as its weapons deal double damage to physical shields, such as the Ecu. Remember that you can also fire at Anciles at 400-500 metres and still be effective, due to the bullet spread of the Thunder and Punisher T, denying your opponent of their energy shield. If you find yourself under attack from a more powerful opponent, such as a Lancelot, it is recommended that you hide behind an obstacle and cornershoot, as this increases your chance of survival significantly. However, always engage enemy robots with a teammate if possible.
Pros: High durability for a medium robot, decent firepower, only two hardpoints makes it fast to upgrade, good at cornershooting, relatively cheap as it only costs silver, small profile/target.
Cons: Quite slow for a medium robot, slightly less firepower than many of its opponents, outclassed in higher leagues.
Midrangers/missiles/support (Builds listed below)
Introduction - While Shocktrain Bulgasari is frowned upon and considered "nooby" or "cheap", that doesn't matter. It is still undeniably extremely effective and if you have the cash/in-game time and resources, I strongly suggest you try and obtain this unbelievably powerful setup.
Basic Strategy - Wait until your Shocktrains are fully charged up, then dash out from behind cover, fire, then use your second dash to return to your ambush spot. Dash out, fire, dash back, repeat.
Advanced Strategy - As this setup is usually used in higher leagues and does incredible damage, target robots with energy shields e.g Haechi, as a priority, as they generally have lower health than other robots without an energy shield. This build is also effective against Ancilots, as their physical shields cannot take more than a few fully charged shots from your robot. Again, use cover wisely, as you are still vulnerable to brawlers at close range. Use your dash ability to escape and hide behind cover if the enemy brawlers get too close.
Expert Strategy - This robot is extremely useful in a support role, delivering large amounts of damage to the unwary. However, use cover and your dash ability to hide from brawlers and snipers. If under attack, turn your robot around so that the Bulgasari's shield is facing the enemy as to preserve your health for future engagements. This is important as, like the Trebuchet, 3 purple glowing barrels (and the sound of your Shocktrains charging) can be seen very clearly by the enemy. Although enemies usually respond by getting behind cover, many will also open fire on you, as you are a major threat. However, this build is great in providing suppressive fire and guarding beacons, because any enemies that get too close will be hit by a devastating blast of purple energy.
Pros: An excellent counter to common Griffin setups (PDB, DB, Stuka, RDB). You very often see these setups and try and find a counter. Shocktrain Bulgasari and Trebuchet setups are very effective at countering the most popular brawlers.
Cons: Robots with high health and physical shielding are very good against Shocktrain setups (Raijin). You should always try and steer clear of physically shielded bots that are not low health/low shield capacity.
Snipers/support (Builds listed below)
Snipers tend to have high alpha damage and slow reloads, along with some of the lowest DPM values in the game. Consequently, while it can be tempting to shoot the first target you see once you have reloaded, this is not always the best option. Instead, choose weakened targets, or bots that your teammates just need a little help to kill. Don't be afraid to spend some time selecting the target to shoot, in order to maximize your contribution to your team.
If the knife-fighters are completely knocked out, select targets with the least HP. Use the high Alpha damage to finish them (Kang Dae and Trebuchet have high Alpha damage while Nashorn has high DPM for a sniper weapon).
A typical sniper would have an effective loadout of 2 Trebuchets and Gekkos. The Gekkos optionally can be replaced with Noricum for splash damage. Unlike Kang Dae and Nashorn, Trebuchet has a long reload time (23 seconds for a full charge) and relies on the charge stored up. If using a non-quick draw robot, wait until 15 seconds have passed. Then fire your shot. If using Butch, wait until the quickdraw cools down, which is almost the same as the full reload time for Trebuchet (Just 3 seconds quicker). After you fire one salvo, quick draw, which takes 1 second. When firing, it takes 0.2 seconds. This adds extra charge to the holstered Trebuchets. This is the reason Butch is always a favourite to snipers, although being one of the most expensive items in the game.
These two sniper setups are both fearsome sniper builds. With the rise of multiple energy weapons in recent times along with the slight drop of ancile numbers, these setups have become more viable in the high league meta. These weapons deal double damage to physical shields, a feature often forgotten for these old snipers. This is one of the strongest counters to the shocktrain bulgasari as the pilot can sit well out of range and shoot down the bulgasaris with a powerful shot. The Kang daes will break a bulgasari's shield relatively quickly, leaving it very vulnerable to other midrangers which can finish it off. The nashorns deal less damage per shot, but it can fire more often. The choice between nashorns and Kang daes is all down to the preference of the user, however, Kang daes are recommended since anciles are still very popular.
- One if the most popular ability before dash. Jump ability is extremely versatile as it can take any direction depending upon where the legs are directed.
Care should be taken while jumping in open maps as the bot becomes easy target for snipers especially trebs.
Killing jumping bots is hard if they jump. Best way is to engage after bot has jumped and memorize the jump cool down. A grounded jump bot is a dead bot. Also the robot stops momentarily after it lands on the ground after jumping. So firing aphids 1-2 seconds before this will land a successful hit.
Using jump ability(in case of griffin) needs practice and jump should only be reserved as a last resort. Jump should be used mostly for defense. Using it for offense is risky as the griffin can be destroyed quickly if a wrong move is made. Caution against other griffins; if pilot skill is same then the griffin that jumps 1st usually dies 1st as well.
Rogatka jump is a very good combination along with its speed. Thus should utilized for speed and maneuvering around slow bots.
- Cossark pilot jumps for his dear life and beakons.
Destroying using abilities
Rhino: Assault mode:
The biggest mistake players make with rhino is that they rely too much on its shield. Eventhough it has the second most durable shield (241,000 maxed!) with Bulgasari having the most durable physical shield most rhinos die before their shield gets destroyed. The basic purpose of the assault mode it to move quickly not to tank damage. The excessive use of assault mode leads to early deaths among rhino pilots. Rhino should have its shield "down" most of the time. Assault mode should be used for
- Capping beacons
- Dodging rockets(partially) by moving perpendicular to the incoming rockets
- Entering Ancile shield
- For moving in range to an enemy robot
- For absorbing plasma & the initial burst damage of thunders
Playing with rhino without thinking that it has a physical shield will tremendously improve survival and usuage of rhino in game.
- When meeting another enemy, charge towards them using assault mode and then when your 350 meters or less, unleash the volley of firepower. If using an RBD setup, get into range using assault mode and then fire.
- It's best to make the enemy run dry on ammo. When using guns, they have a 10 or 15 second reload time, giving you a chance to close the distance
- The Rhino has the second most durable shield in the game (With Bulgasari in first place). This means you do not need to worry about it breaking. Just make sure no one else can support your enemy. It is although recommended to upgrade the Rhino a few times to harness the full potential of the shield.
- RBD setup is the most effective knife fighter setup, making it very deadly
- When in assault mode, it can reach up to 60 km/h fully upgraded, making it a strong beacon capturer, also being able to fill in a knife-fighter role, making one of the most versatile bots in the game in terms of roles and weapons
- Take into account that when in assault mode, left-right actions are very low. Only the top speed is buffed. Also, keep in mind the limited torso traverse (5 degrees limited at a 5 degree per second rate) and a limited lower body turning speed (5 degrees per second but no limitation).
When you're PDB setup:
Rhino is approaching! It probably will try to run towards you using its special assault ability, which makes the bot deploy its shield and move dangerously fast. What should I do?
First, try to figure out what kind of setup is the rhino. Usually, they are RDB or PDB. You can see tarans poking out from its sides...if nothing's poking out its loaded with orkans( storm/ tulus).
1.Shoot until you or rhino dies. Rhino will almost always win unless you have another partner or in a group.
2.If you have some cover nearby, try to cover shoot/corner shoot. This will give the rhino some damage.
3.If you have jump ability, try to jump over it. Because the rhino has low turning speed (When in assault mode), and they can't lock on bots that are just above you, Rhino won't be able to shoot and you will be able to shoot the rhino's weak spot.
When you're RDB setup
You just met your favorite food: A Rhino! Stay behind cover and finish rhino when it is in range! Then just "eat" it when it reaches firing range.
Tricking the Rhino
The Rhino's shield is one of the most durable in game. As a result, Rhino pilots are not particularly concerned about it breaking. When faced with an opponent firing at their shield, they are often content to wait until you have emptied your guns before retaliating. While this, consequently, may seem like a bad idea, there are ways to use it.
If you are waiting for your jump to cool down, rather than sustain fire, you can tap the button so that you fire slightly slower than your weapon's rate of fire. This extends the amount of time you are firing and makes it more likely that you can escape the moment your jump becomes available.
Bypassing physical shields with Tarans
Dealing with lancelots, galahads and rhinos (bulgasari as well) is very hard with Tarans and Magnums is very hard and usually results in the untimely demise of the plasma bot. Although Tarans is on of the most powerful weapons in the game, it slightly struggles with Physical shields.
To damage health, the physical shield has to be broken which takes a lot of time, especially when you are fighting alone.
The game's "default aim" will always make your weapons shoot the physical shield no matter how hard you try. Bypassing physical shield employs the exploitation of this aiming system. Following are the requirements for this to work:
- At Least 2 robots in front of your aim at about the same terrain level.
- Manual Lockon aim.
So this is how your are going to do it:
- Choose your target enemy; but lock on the "2nd" enemy robot.
- While keeping you lockon on the 2nd robot fire at the target robot.
- You will see that now your hitting the robot in the "exposed parts" like the legs, weapon hardpoints etc
- This will directly damage the robots health and you can practically kill it without breaking its shield.
- Make sure the lockon on the 2nd robot does not move out of the "green brackets" in aiming system.
- Make full use of corner shooting to improve your bots survival.
- This works extremely well when you are using a galahad or a lancelot.
If this isn't possible:
- Simply go around the physical shield
- Let your teammates destroy it, then you finish it off
- If its a Lancelot, focus on one part of the shield, since there are 3 pieces that make up the shield
- If you have jump, jump over the robot and then shoot it
- If you have rush, flank using rush and then circle it